Rency Thomas
Rency enjoys identifying as an outdoor leader, survival instructor, and adventurer. He has a deep appreciation for the Himalayas and is a passionate trekker, often spending his free time hiking mountains and engaging in exciting activities.
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An extremely glamorous trek, Chadar Trek is one for the adrenaline-junkies that like to go all in or all out. Trekking in Ladakh have gained immense popularity in recent years, and Chadar trek has become a favorite amongst Indians and travelers from other parts of the world. For me, it was 8 years back when I did Chadar Trek for the first time. Down the line, this little gorge now gets 20 times more people than those days. The trek is open for a small window of just 45 to 50 days, usually from 1st of January till 20th of February, depending upon the solid formation of Chadar – the ice carpet.
Also, Leh government along with ALTOA, (All Ladakh Tour Operators Association) now have come up with safe operating standards. The trek will run safely as it has been implemented with strict adherence of rules and regulations. Therefore, train your sights below for an on-ground experience of Chadar Trek. Find comprehensive details about the temperature, accommodation, the actual trek, food and some essential pro tips to execute the trek with finesse.
- Arrival, acclimatization and permits – 03 Day
- Actual trek – 05 Days
- Back in Leh and departure – 01 Day
On the first day, we will arrive and take some time to rest.
With a group of 8 people including me, we arrived at Leh via an early morning flight from Delhi. From the airport, we took a cab to the guest house on our own (As airport pick up was not part of the package) and reached at around 0830 hrs. Soon after reaching the guest house we were asked to complete the registration process which included insurance form, 3 passport size photo to be given along with a copy of the Identity and Address proof (voter’s card, passport or Aadhar card) and signing the indemnity form.
After enjoying a cup of tea and breakfast, a few of us felt the need to rest due to slight headaches, so we retired to our individual rooms. At 1400 hrs, we were all awakened for lunch. Since the meal in Leh was not part of our package, we had arranged for delicious vegetarian food from the guest house at an additional cost. Unfortunately, my partner and two others were experiencing intense headaches and nausea, so they decided to skip lunch. They were provided with warm water and advised to rest.
In the evening, we had to bring her to the hospital because she was experiencing severe hypoxia and symptoms of AMS. The hospital was incredibly comfortable, tidy, and well-managed. The doctor admitted her for a duration of 2 hours, provided oxygen treatment, and prescribed medication. Her health improved significantly following the administration of oxygen, and we returned to our guest house late at night.
Day 02 – Acclimatization walk
After arising to a new day, we all felt healthy and showed no signs of AMS. Following a delicious breakfast, we received a lengthy and tiring briefing that included significant topics such as
- How to acclimatize easily
- Protection from elements
- Demonstration of cloth layering
- Principles of Leave No Trace policy
- Women hygiene and safety
- A brief idea of what to pack during the trek.
Afterwards, we were guided to Shanti Stupa for a walk to adjust to the altitude. We took some pictures there and then returned to Leh market for lunch and shopping. Some of us needed to take pictures because they didn’t have a camera, a few went to buy chocolates, and others went to get gumboots. Eventually, we agreed to have dinner at the guest house and then went to sleep soundly.
Day 03 – Permit day
This morning, after eating breakfast, we all began our journey to the Tourism Information Center (TIC) in Leh. We arrived at TIC around 1000 hrs. Initially, we had to present our boarding pass to the insurance company (ASC 360) along with the completely filled and accurate insurance form that we completed on Day01. After confirming and inputting all of our information into their computer system, they provided us with a medical form that needed to be completed by us and approved by the doctor and medical team located in the adjacent room. Once inside the medical room, we were required to pay Rs. 200/- for the medical examination.
First, your blood pressure and oxygen level will be checked. Once you meet the doctor, they will casually ask a few questions about your medical history in a cheerful manner. If everything is normal, you are cleared to proceed. You will receive an “APPROVED” stamp on the form. Next, you return to the insurance office where you can obtain an insurance card by paying Rs. 2000/- per person. This card covers emergency medical check-ups, evacuation, and more. With the insurance card and a list of all the individuals in your group, you can then go to the ALTOA desk. There, you can obtain permits by paying the necessary fees.
- Wildlife
- ALTOA fees
- Environment fees
Congratulations! You now possess the necessary document to embark on the Chadar trek.
We spent nearly an entire day clearing everything from the area, despite being the first group to arrive for permits. Once we received the permits, we enjoyed a fantastic dinner at a local restaurant called Darjeeling Corner. After doing some quick shopping for nuts, dried fruits, and chocolates for the upcoming trek, we took a taxi to the guest house. Upon arrival, we received a thorough briefing on how to pack a backpack for tomorrow’s trek. For more information on what to pack for the Chadar Trek, you can also refer to our blog.
Actual Trek
Day 04 – Drive and trek to Tso Ma Poldar
We prepared ourselves by 0700 hours and had our morning meal by 0730 hours. The transportation was prepared by the time we emerged, consisting of two tempo travelers. While the vehicles were being loaded with all the necessary supplies and equipment, we ensured that our belongings were packed. Following some photography and a briefing, we left Leh at approximately 0920 hours. The journey up until Chilling was quick, effortless, and picturesque. However, after that point, the drive became more difficult, hazardous, and simultaneously awe-inspiring.
The road had sufficient width for a tempo traveler to navigate, with its tires positioned just within the road and part of the body extending over the steep gorges. The excitement grew as we observed the road and the frozen white Zanskar River below. By midday, we arrived at Tilad Do. Our skilled cooks prepared a delicious hot lunch, accompanied by steaming black tea. Afterwards, we packed up and continued towards the initial campsite. The journey involved a challenging walk of approximately 3 hours, and we reached the campsite by 1630 HRS.
The campsite had an important feature: the medical camp was located near our camps. The medical camp, run by the insurance company ASC360, had two doctors and several assistants available around the clock to provide medical assistance. Fortunately, one of the doctors was able to accompany us to the next campsite.
After the sun went down, the temperature in this area significantly decreases, affecting the climate and weather. To combat the cold, the camp chef prepared a delicious hot soup that provided us with warmth. The dinner was incredibly satisfying. We all went to bed at approximately 2100 hrs and found the tent to be quite comfortable compared to the freezing cold outdoors. Our sleeping bags were layered and we utilized a hot water bottle for additional heat.
Day 05 – Trek from Tso Ma Poldar to Tibb
Following a delightful morning meal, we embarked on our journey to Tibb Cave. The path was lengthy and covered in ice, but as we paused for a midday meal, we had grown accustomed to walking on the icy surface. The scenery was captivating, occasionally causing us to momentarily forget that we were traversing a frozen river with rushing water beneath. It was crucial to avoid any errors, as even a minor misstep could have dire consequences.
Image Credits: planetwayround.com
The temperature at Tibb campsite was colder in comparison to Tso Ma Poldar, but we had already become used to the cold. Those who still felt chilly gathered around the small fire that the porters had made.
Day 06 – Trek from Tibb to Narek Waterfall
Today’s journey is important because we will finally see the highly anticipated frozen waterfall in Narek. The trek was lengthy, but the group was filled with enthusiasm and energy. Our sole objective was to reach Narek falls and capture a classic group photo with the frozen falls in the background. During our lunch break, we noticed a few young boys swimming in the water. Although we were tempted to join them, our initial instructions prevented us from doing so.
The excitement and energy in us went exponentially very high as soon as we saw the frozen falls. It is so majestic and indescribable in just mere words. It looked like somebody just waved a magic wand at the waterfall and it went frozen instantly.
Day 07 – Trek from Narek to Tibb
After capturing a few pictures of the falls, we began our journey back to the starting point of the road. The return walk seemed more time-consuming than it had initially appeared. We arrived at our campsite slightly behind schedule compared to our original estimated time of arrival.
Day 08 – Trek from Tibb to Shingra Koma and drive to Leh
Today, we commenced our journey earlier than our usual routine in order to trek until reaching the road head and return to civilization in Leh. It was a profoundly sentimental moment for all of us to bid farewell to the stunning Chadar. We arrived in Leh at approximately 1830 hrs and enjoyed our lunch at the road head located in Shingra Koma.
Day 09 – Departure from Leh
We took an early morning flight back to Delhi. The two other trekkers in our group also had the same return flight, so we decided to accompany them to the airport. Ultimately, a fantastic and unforgettable nine days came to a close. If you inquire about the differences between my previous visit and this one, I would say there have been significant changes.
Pro tips
- Please make sure to wear waterproof hiking shoes that have been properly broken in.
- Gumboots is a savior, but not an alternate for hiking boots
- Layering is the success mantra
- We do not recommend to use crampons. It needs a good experience to be used accurately. Alternatively, you can use easily available “microspikes”
- Trekking poles can be very helpful on the slippery ice
- Do not expect the same level of service as the life is harsh there. People serving you are also humans; they do their best to keep you safe and cosy but don’t expect luxury.
- It typically takes around two to three days to adapt to the cold weather. Make sure to dress appropriately in layers and avoid relying too heavily on heaters.
Please take a look at our additional blog post titled “A Concise Guide to Chadar Trek”.
You often have heard a lot of stories about the challenges of Chadar Trek that hinders you from experiencing this magnificent trek. As said, ” Don’t Listen to what they say, go see for yourself”. This trek is unique, one of its kind, and must be experienced by all the adrenaline seekers. So if you are someone who wants to see something rare and surreal, it’s time for a new adventure.
